Sept. 7: San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico to Northern Guatemala

We crossed the border from Mexico to Guatemala in the northern part of the country, at a checkpoint called Ceibo. We had to exit Mexican customs, drive a few feet and then enter a small hut which was the border/customs for Guatemala. We parked the motorcycle and entered the hut, feeling the usual bit of nervousness at driving into a new country. What an experience!

The 2 guys from customs were super-friendly, and when we entered, a Mexican was playing his guitar and singing inside the customs hut. There were men milling about asking us if we wanted to change money, flashing large wads of quetzals, the local currency. The mood was festive and it was infectious. Turns out the guy singing didn’t have the 16 quetzales to cross the border into Guatemala, so he was entertaining the border officials in exchange for entry. What a great welcome. We passed many small villages on our way to Tikal, home of the amazing ruins. The poverty we saw was striking, so different than Mexico.

We arrived at Tikal, and drove into the actual park, where we checked into some small ‘jungle cabins’. There is no electricity here after 9pm…the generator shuts off there is no power until morning at 9am.

We had spent the previous 2 nights at Palenque, Mayan ruins in the State of Chiapas, Mexico. We found (thanks to some friends) a place called El Jaguar, cabins in the jungle with block walls and mosquito net windows. Chris was happy as we could park the motorcycle right outside of our cabin. About 4am we discovered that our cabin was adjacent to the local chicken coop, with a rambunctious rooster who wouldn’t stop until we finally got up. He also had his apprentice with him, a baby rooster who would try to crow but who had a Backstreet Boys break in his voice every time. We couldn’t help but laugh. Across the street from El Jaguar was a place called Don Mucho, a large palapa which serves as the local restaurant and nightclub. The place was full of backpackers, archaeologist-types, hippies, and a mix of tourists and locals. What a blast. At night, lit by candles, with groups playing guitars, bongos, beat boxes, everyone tired from climbing up the ruins but ready to mix and socialize…we loved it.

Our stop prior to Palenque was at San Cristobal de las Casas, one of my new favorite cities in Mexico. San Cristobal is a colonial city with a heavy influence and feel of the indigenous people. What is so great about it is that you can feel the history and the tradition, yet there is a very happening, current vibe that goes through the city….which in turn all relates back to the past. The indigenous people subsist on a mostly vegetarian diet, so there are great natural food and vegetarian restaurants there. They believe in natural healing, plants, energy, and the like, and there are many yoga, mayan massage, natural healing and holistic places to go. Near our small ‘posada’ I found a place called Alterna Dance Studio, where I went to do an exercise class…thought it was Zumba but it was hip-hop…in Spanish…very interesting!

We visited the village of San Juan Chomula, which belongs to the Tzotzil people. We wanted to go with a guide, so connected with Raul and Cesar—you just meet them at 9:30 in the morning in front of the big cross at the city square. Raul takes you in his 1980 VW Bus to the village, which is governed by the people of this group, in a very protected and insular way. Tradition is sacred, from local dress to government to religion. The women wear rough wool skirts, satin blouses, braided hair and shawls folded on their heads. The men, depending on their rank, wear rough woolen tunics, pants, and the guys with real rank wear Mayan sandals. We visited the church, Templo de San Juan, and that is where it all became clear. The Spaniards built the church, but the Tzotzil people have made the church and Catholicism their own (the church is no longer recognized by the Vatican.) When you walk into the church you are overwhelmed by the amount of candles burning. The Tzotzils took out all of the pews, put mirrors on all of the chests of the saints (they reflect the soul) and they worship in small groups, lighting groups of candles on the floor, performing rituals with chickens, plants, eggs, and beverages of different color. It was an incredible, surreal, experience. Too bad no photography was allowed, as I would have loved to share this. A few more interesting things there: if you break the law, you have to do community service, which is to become a police officer for one year with no pay. Police have no weapons save for a big wooden bat. Jails (second offense) are open on to the street so all of the townspeople can look in through the bars at your disgrace. 3rd offense you get thrown out of the village, never to return.

When we got back from the village, there was a concert going on in the central square. It turns out that there is a problem with graffiti in the village, with young people defacing the beautiful colonial houses and buildings with graffiti. When the town tried to fine them, there was a hue and cry that their rights of free expression were being violated. There was a conundrum as to what to do, how to address this without conflict. The city of San Cristobal did a very smart thing….when one of the kids is caught, he/she is responsible for re-painting the entire house. They also gave voice to the group that represents them, JULE (Jovenes Unidos por la Libre Expresion) and allowed them to have a concert. They also installed white boards in the square where the youth could do their so-called ‘art’. When we arrived at the concert, it was funny to see the mix of people….young indigenous teens in their traditional dress rocking out to a heavy-metal alternative band. The world is really getting smaller.

A final word---we have been traveling by motorcycle in Mexico for almost 8 weeks now. The experience has been phenomenal. The colors, the people, the flavors, the topography and the warmth of Mexico has been exceptional. There is a lot of bad press in the U.S. and in other places regarding this wonderful country. My advice…travel with caution, like anywhere, but travel to Mexico. You will be missing out if you don’t.